The area
The Charente-Maritime enjoys the long hot summers and mild winters so necessary for the production of the fine grapes, used make fine wines and cognac. Located along the Atlantic with 200km of coastline, the area is a magnificent and exceptional part of France. This is a quiet agricultural area, mostly vineyards and sunflower fields, wheat and maize. The population density for the Charente Maritime is on a par with Cumbria – England’s least populous county – for those used to Britain’s congested roads the comparative peace of rural French roads makes driving a pleasure again. Royan, 40 minutes to the west of La Renaudrie, is a popular holiday destination for the French who enjoy the excellent beaches and appreciate the local oysters, mussels and freshly caught fish. All the local restaurants have excellent fresh fish dishes. A visit to the morning fish market in Royan is a pleasurable education!
For those who enjoy the famous liquid tastes of France The local vineyards are famous for their production of Cognac. Pineau des Charentes, the local aperitif, is a blend of Cognac and grape juice and delicious when served cold. There are many local tiny wineries and distilleries where one can taste and buy wine, Cognac and Pineau directly from the producers - just follow the hand-made signs on the sides of roads.
La Renaudrie is 40 minutes away from Cognac, an interesting town to visit. We are also 45 minutes from wonderful St. Emilion and less than an hour from Bordeaux. The nearby world-famous wine region of Medoc is worth visiting as are the nearer Cotes de Bourg and Cotes de Blaye.
Beaches About 40 minutes away are the sandy beaches at Meschers sur Gironde and St Georges de Didonne. As you travel west the beaches get smarter and at Royan. you can hire a blue and white striped tent and join the ultra-smart set beach. On the other side of Royan is our favourite beach near La Palmyre zoo. Further up the coast are wonderful beaches for surfing.
'Zoo de La Palmyre' the most visited tourist attraction in the Charente-Maritime. This is a breeding zoo, with an emphasis on conservation, so leaving many of the 1,600 animals free to roam.
Towns and villages in the area The nearest village to La Renaudrie is St Ciers-du-Taillon. There is a small supermarket; the village also has a restaurant (le Cheval Blanc), a boulangerie, charcuterie, wine merchants, garage and excellent chemist/pharmacist. It suffers through being on the D730 road leading to Royan.
Mirambeau, is about ten minutes away and is the nearest town, it boasts a Super U supermarket, a wonderful boulangerie (Les Delices d’Autan) two hairdressers plus a range of other shops. It has a Saturday morning market and a fair on the last Saturday of the month.
Royan is one of the most prestigious seaside resorts on the Atlantic coast, a favorite with the French. Rebuilt since the Second World War, it has a fifties charm and ultra smart beaches.
To the west of Royan is
Les Jardins du Monde a flower and leisure park with tropical greenhouse, orchid exhibition, collection of bonsai, theme gardens and themed landscapes around a lake such as a Japanese garden; bamboo maze and children’s play area. (Tel: 05 46 38 00 09).
Take your car on the short ferry crossing over the Gironde to the Medoc where you can tour visit the great Claret producing estates or surf on long sandy Atlantic beaches.
For the evenings try the Casino Barriere by the Pontaillac beach, open every day until 3am, for roulette, stud poker and Black Jack. Its Atlantic café has quiet areas, plenty of cocktails and somewhere to eat. Live music on Saturdays from 10pm.
Saintes is the nearest major town and is set on the Charente River - said by François I to be the most beautiful in France, (he was born in Cognac). The town still retains many echoes of its Roman origins including a fine ampitheatre. The Arc de Germanicus dating from 18AD stands close to the centre of town, near the main bridge.
Just off the main street is the oldest quarter with an interesting array of shops in pedestrianised streets. There are street markets twice a week and then on the first Monday of each month the entire town centre is closed for a large street market. You can hire electric boats on the Charente or else take trips on traditional wooden boats (Tel: 05 46 74 23 82). Saintes is 45 minutes away.
La Rochelle Today the busiest yachting centre on the French Atlantic coast, it is famous for its three outstanding medieval towers and picturesque old port. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants to relax in after visiting the boutiques and shops in old town. The Aquarium is an amazing with varieties of fish from sharks through to tiny multi-coloured thingies. (Tel: 05 46 34 00 00). You can take an excursion boat for a trip past Fort Boyard for a day or half day (Tel: 05 46 50 68 44). La Rochelle is about 1 hour 20 minutes away.
Rochefort has a pedestrianised area near the seafront – with smart bars, excellent places to watch the world go by between bouts of shopping. The faithful full size reconstruction of the eighteenth century frigate Hermione is worth a visit, giving a real insight into the great age of sail, but we must admit we have yet to see the famous royal rope factory.
Cognac is still has the feel of a sleepy county town, the stone has been turned from honey-coloured to grey by the evaporation of the famous product. (As Pa Larkin said “Wonderful people the French - fancy naming a town after a drink!”) Take the interesting, well-run tours round the distilleries of Remy Martin, Otard, Martell and Hennessey then if you are in a fit state, stroll around the Parc du François I and take a boat trip on the River Charente.
Jonzac 25 minutes away, has good facilities with plenty of shops, cafes and restaurants and a beautiful chateau in the centre of the town. Les Antilles, Is a ‘West Indies’ swimming complex for all year round swimming, with a tropical Lagoon with wave pool, a 60-meter waterslide, waterfalls and geysers all in a tropical temperature. There are also Jacuzzis, health spa, and saunas. For those not participating there is a high level café from which you can watch all the activity or a tropical pathway with seating and a café/bar at the end. The complex has a small stage area and holds cabaret and theme evenings.
The Casino de Jonzac has a cocktail bar and restaurant for those who tire of the roulette and black jack.
Pons Le Chateau des Enigmes is a day out that can amuse all family members over seven. There is a game of 23 puzzles that take you (as a sailor) across the park to the chateau with all kinds of clues. When you end up at the chateau you type in all your answers into a computer that lets you know how well you have done. It is highly recommended; take a picnic lunch with you.
Pons also boasts a couple of highly recommended restaurants.
Villages to see
Saint-Georges-de-Didonne, this side of Royan, has its own long sandy beach. It has a relaxed family atmosphere.
Meschers The nearest beach is in the village of Meschers, which has several sandy coves for swimming and sunbathing. Plage des Nonnes has a bar and restaurant on the beach that is well thought of. You can also visit the caves that have been hollowed out of the white cliffs overlooking the Gironde. Indeed there are guided visits to discover the history and legends of the caves (so the literature says). Tel: 05 46 02 55 36.
Talmont, situated on the Gironde estuary, has a beautiful 11th century fortified church, St Radegonde that sits on a small peninsula rock overlooking the estuary. The village dates back to the 13th C, with old narrow streets lined with hollyhocks, shops, small museums and restaurants.
St Thomas de Conac a short drive away, has an excellent boulangerie and a restaurant run by an Irish/Scottish couple.
What to do
Nature reserve (Pole Nature) at Vitrezay - This wildlife centre, fully opened for the first time in 2005, is local to La Renaudrie and well worth a visit particularly in the migratory season. 10 kms away.
Paths lead out into the marais through the wetlands with observation hides. There is also an exhibition centre and throughout the season various different entertainments and special events are laid on. There is a restaurant-bar with a panoramic view of the estuary; you can take a boat trip over to Pauillac on the other side of the Gironde. There is the opportunity to try your hand at a number of activities, including fishing in various forms, canoeing, sailing or going out in a sea kayak. You can even rent a genuine carrelet (fishing hut with net) by the hour, day or night! If you need to telephone Vitrezay for further information English is sort of spoken. Tel: 05 46 49 89 99.
Futuroscope - The French version of Disneyland, has amazing technical experiences with a variety of ‘rides’ for the young or young at heart. It is near Poitiers two hours away, up the A10.
Riding - There are a number of stables to be found in the area, the nearest being "Le Haras" at St.Thomas de Conac (10 mins), with accompanied riding available by the hour or by the day. Tel: 05 46 86 03 22.
Golf - The south Charente-Maritime is good for golfers as there are three excellent 18 hole golf courses not too far away.
- Near Saintes there is Golf de Saintes Rouyer Guillet, La Grange, 43 Route Golf, 17100 Fontcouverte, Tel: 05 46 74 27 61.
- To the west at Royan is Golf de Royan, www.golf-de-royan.com at 7 avenue Palmyre, 17420 St. Palais sur Mer, Tel: 05 46 23 16 24.
- Near Cognac we see Golf du Cognac at 2 rue Maurie, St. Brice, Tel: 05 45 32 18 17.
- A Golf Pass can be bought entitling 10 days use of all three. E-mail: cdt17@marcireau.fr
- In addition, there is a smaller 9-hole course available at Montendre (30 mins away). Tel: 05 46 49 40 31.
Bird Watching - There are always birds of prey circling in the area and you are likely to see black redstarts, cuckoos, black kites, hen harriers, buzzards, goshawks, herons, pied flycatchers and hoopoes, amongst others. The area as a whole is excellent for spotting migratory birds (particularly spring and autumn).
The Charente-Maritime is located in the Mid-Atlantic region known as the "East Atlantic Flyway" an important crossroads for migratory birds. Every year, between August and November, the area becomes the meeting point for birds escaping the winter cold. They migrate south to spend their winters on warmer lands of the Northeast-Southwest axis between Western Europe and South Africa.
At Rochefort, about an hour away, 74 hectares of ecological lagoons welcome thousands of birds each year.
Walking - If you want to "do you own thing" there are endless miles of quiet country roads, estuary side walks and beaches to stroll around at your leisure.
House hunting - Please also note that if you are looking for a home in this wonderful part of France, www.kaydreamhomes.com.fr has a regularly updated selection of properties and unlike most immobilier the prices quoted include the taxes and extras. Also Christopher Kay and his colleagues will work with you in English.
